Burlington, Vermont
Friday 24th August- Monday 27th August
I left Boston on the Friday and took a short plane journey up to the town of Burlington in Vermont.
To say the plane was ‘small’ would be an understatement.
To obtain some idea of its size, almost more people attended my failed ‘Vice City’ club night several years back than were on this actual flight.
Without wishing to sound too horrid, when a slightly large lady got on the plane and sat above the wheel, I must confess I did think that the laws of aerodynamics would be put firmly to the test.
Nevertheless we arrived safely, and that afternoon I had the opportunity to explore the incredibly laid back town centre and the nearby Lake Champlain facing the Adirondack mountain range in New York State.
In the evening I went to a nearby karaoke bar and belted out a couple of Johnny Cash ('A boy named S(t)ue') and Meatloaf numbers, and asked someone to take a picture of my efforts.
However in addition to capturing my performance for posterity, the girl also managed to delete all my photos from my previous week in Massachusetts.
Luckily I didn’t find this out until much later that evening, as firstly I’m sure it wouldn’t have been a pleasant scene if I had discovered this incident there and then, but also secondly, by some twist of fate I would in fact unbelievably manage to retrieve them from my camera when I came home.
I don’t know how I achieved this.
Maybe the ‘witches’ of Salem played their part?
On the Saturday I went to the Shelburne Museum.
An enormous collection of American artefacts ranging from utilitarian day-to-day items, to the unique and bizarre.
Initiated by the millionairess, or should that be billionairess, Electra Havemeyer Webb some sixty years ago, it was a real collector’s collection.
Amongst this eclectic collection the museum's grounds also contained a reconstructed steam train complete with railway station, a nineteenth century light house, as well as the luxury paddle ship SS Ticonderoga.
And I thought I was a terrible horder.
On the Sunday I got back to nature and went to Shelburne Farms.
Created a century ago again under the patronage of the Webb family, and designed in part by Frederick Law Olmsted, whom I believe also designed Central Park in New York.
Here I talked to the animals, walked around the grounds, and visited their famous dairy amongst other things.
Having now spent three months in a country where the environment is not always a number one priority it was nice to see the ecological outlook adopted by the farm.
JFK Airport, New York
Monday 27th August
I left Burlington early Monday morning, and was somewhat optimistic that once at JFK with time to spare before my flight home I would be able to check in my bags and then head over to Manhattan for one final hurrah.
Unfortunately this was not to prove the case, and I spent my eighty fifth and final day in North America camped at various terminal buildings.
Whilst I maybe did not get that last opportunity to visit Central Park, visit Ellis Island, or consume more cwoffee and bwagels, this did at least afford me with the window of opportunity to read the Diego Maradona biography my sister had given me some ten years previously, and which up until then I still hadn’t had time to begin on my travels.
Orpington, Kent, UK
Friday 31st August
So here I am now back at my parents’ house, adjusting to a life no longer on the road.
In a couple of weeks I will be moving to London and starting my MA in Broadcast Journalism, but I will never forget those fantastic three months I spent travelling around North America.
I hope you enjoyed my blog.
See you on Facebook…
Friday 31 August 2007
Friday 24 August 2007
Thursday 23 August 2007
Massachusetts
Boston, Massachusetts,
Saturday 18th- Thursday 23rd August
I obviously enjoyed my duration in Philadelphia so much that I almost contrived to oversleep the Saturday morning and miss the early morningtrain I had booked to take me North to Boston.
Boston was one of the cities I felt was particularly noticable from my original Trek America itinerary, and so with my last two weeks alone in the US I was determined that I would visit it.
However despit my perhaps naive conceptions of the city being a small quaint extensionof 17th century England, I am sad to say that the city has been somewhat of a disappointment.
A fact made particularly apparent after how much I had enjoyed Philadelphia.
Ironically Philadelphia bearing agreater resemblence to this ideal than Boston itself.
By the way I am not on some commission from the Philadelphia Tourist Board.
I arrived late Saturday afternoon, and feeling somewhat exhausted by not only the previous few days' exploits, but that of the previouseleven weeks'.
After briefly exploring Boston's delightful nearby Common, I actually went to bed around 7.30pm that night.
On the Sunday I endeavoured to obtain a greater feel for the city by undertaking the 3 mile historical Freedom Trail.
This feat I must have achieved in arecord time of just over 7 hours!
Although this was in due in part tothe occassional deviation both accidental and deliberate from thepainted red path on the pavement laying out the route.
Well no wonder I wasn't accepted at Harvard.
Quincy Market and the incredibly vibrant Little Italy being two particular highlights that had led me astray.
The next day I went to actually enter and re-visit some of the sites on the Freedom Trail I had not done the previous day.
In addition to this I went to find the Boston Tea Party Museum, which was closed, and took an alternative route around the city via the Black History Tour, where again unfortunately access to the historical sites was limited.
I then spent the remainder of the afternoon taking a pleasant walk by the Charles River planning my route for my next day's excursion.
On the Tuedsay I crossed the Charles River and headed north to the city of Cambridge home of America's most prestigious educational instituition, Harvard University.
I can now write on my next CV with all honsety taht I have indeed been to Harvard. However having explored the grounds there was only one thing left for me to do, and that was to watch The Simpsons Movie at a nearby cinema.
I don't know what everyone else thought, but I quite enjoyed it.
Wednesday was to be my favourite day in Massachusetts, and had been soemthing I had been looking forward to in my mind for a long time, even prior to my arrival in Boston, and that was my journey to Province Town and the peninsula of Cape Cod.
Having taken an 8am ferry from Boston Harbour in order to spend a full day there, I still found that was far from enough time.
In the nine hours I was there at Cape Cod I did however manage to explore some of picturesque streets, ascend the Mayflower Pilgrims Monument and take a trail of several miles by the sand dunes and along the northern beaches overlooking the Atlantic, before having something to eat before taking the last ferry of the day back to Boston.
Today has been my final full day in Massachusetts as I will be flying to Burlington in Vermont tomorrow for essentially the final destination proper of my trip across America.
Again I chose to venture out of the city and went by train to the city of Salem. Despite its prominence as a port in the early years after independence, Salem is now eternally famed for the notorious witch trials of 1692.
As you can imagine every aspect of the city is dominated by these events, and serves as the main tourist attraction.
There I visited a couple of witch museums, and walked a couple of miles to visit the recreated 17th century settlement, which being Massachusetts, was of course indefinitely closed....
Saturday 18th- Thursday 23rd August
I obviously enjoyed my duration in Philadelphia so much that I almost contrived to oversleep the Saturday morning and miss the early morningtrain I had booked to take me North to Boston.
Boston was one of the cities I felt was particularly noticable from my original Trek America itinerary, and so with my last two weeks alone in the US I was determined that I would visit it.
However despit my perhaps naive conceptions of the city being a small quaint extensionof 17th century England, I am sad to say that the city has been somewhat of a disappointment.
A fact made particularly apparent after how much I had enjoyed Philadelphia.
Ironically Philadelphia bearing agreater resemblence to this ideal than Boston itself.
By the way I am not on some commission from the Philadelphia Tourist Board.
I arrived late Saturday afternoon, and feeling somewhat exhausted by not only the previous few days' exploits, but that of the previouseleven weeks'.
After briefly exploring Boston's delightful nearby Common, I actually went to bed around 7.30pm that night.
On the Sunday I endeavoured to obtain a greater feel for the city by undertaking the 3 mile historical Freedom Trail.
This feat I must have achieved in arecord time of just over 7 hours!
Although this was in due in part tothe occassional deviation both accidental and deliberate from thepainted red path on the pavement laying out the route.
Well no wonder I wasn't accepted at Harvard.
Quincy Market and the incredibly vibrant Little Italy being two particular highlights that had led me astray.
The next day I went to actually enter and re-visit some of the sites on the Freedom Trail I had not done the previous day.
In addition to this I went to find the Boston Tea Party Museum, which was closed, and took an alternative route around the city via the Black History Tour, where again unfortunately access to the historical sites was limited.
I then spent the remainder of the afternoon taking a pleasant walk by the Charles River planning my route for my next day's excursion.
On the Tuedsay I crossed the Charles River and headed north to the city of Cambridge home of America's most prestigious educational instituition, Harvard University.
I can now write on my next CV with all honsety taht I have indeed been to Harvard. However having explored the grounds there was only one thing left for me to do, and that was to watch The Simpsons Movie at a nearby cinema.
I don't know what everyone else thought, but I quite enjoyed it.
Wednesday was to be my favourite day in Massachusetts, and had been soemthing I had been looking forward to in my mind for a long time, even prior to my arrival in Boston, and that was my journey to Province Town and the peninsula of Cape Cod.
Having taken an 8am ferry from Boston Harbour in order to spend a full day there, I still found that was far from enough time.
In the nine hours I was there at Cape Cod I did however manage to explore some of picturesque streets, ascend the Mayflower Pilgrims Monument and take a trail of several miles by the sand dunes and along the northern beaches overlooking the Atlantic, before having something to eat before taking the last ferry of the day back to Boston.
Today has been my final full day in Massachusetts as I will be flying to Burlington in Vermont tomorrow for essentially the final destination proper of my trip across America.
Again I chose to venture out of the city and went by train to the city of Salem. Despite its prominence as a port in the early years after independence, Salem is now eternally famed for the notorious witch trials of 1692.
As you can imagine every aspect of the city is dominated by these events, and serves as the main tourist attraction.
There I visited a couple of witch museums, and walked a couple of miles to visit the recreated 17th century settlement, which being Massachusetts, was of course indefinitely closed....
Philadelphia Freedom
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania,
Thursday 16th- Saturday 18th August
Having done the iconic, or should that be ironic considering my stature, 'Rocky' pose on the steps of the Philadelphia the following day I went somewhere a bit more historical, although perhaps no less fictional.
That was the home of Betsy Ross, the lady whom legend has it sewed the first American flag.
In the afternoon I then went slighty further afield and took the bus outside of the city to the nearby Germantown district.
However the area was not quite the picturesque community I had envisioned through my Philadelphia guidebook, and the never ending journey along the far from salubrious Germantown Avenue resembled little to my map.
Eventually I decided to stop for a late lunch in a kitsch American roadside diner for yet another Philly Cheesesteak, and where I am pleased to say the people there, as was often the case in this particular city, were ever welcoming.
On the Friday I spent most of yet another enjoyable day in Philly at the Benjamin Franklin Institute.
A museum not disimilar to our own Science Museum with its interactive displays.
I even boldly took a bicycle ride on a tightrope across the main hall on the Skybike, despite my inability to normally ride one on solid ground!
After another a day spent wandering around the city that evening I briefly visited the Gloria Del Rei Swedish church and then went onto the Italian district for what would be the fourth and final Philly Cheesesteak of my stay.
I really enjoyed my time in Philadelphia, and with the exception of Manhattan, I might even now place it as my favourite US city.
Great praise indeed for a place that I had not given a great deal of consideration towards prior to my arrival.
Thursday 16th- Saturday 18th August
Having done the iconic, or should that be ironic considering my stature, 'Rocky' pose on the steps of the Philadelphia the following day I went somewhere a bit more historical, although perhaps no less fictional.
That was the home of Betsy Ross, the lady whom legend has it sewed the first American flag.
In the afternoon I then went slighty further afield and took the bus outside of the city to the nearby Germantown district.
However the area was not quite the picturesque community I had envisioned through my Philadelphia guidebook, and the never ending journey along the far from salubrious Germantown Avenue resembled little to my map.
Eventually I decided to stop for a late lunch in a kitsch American roadside diner for yet another Philly Cheesesteak, and where I am pleased to say the people there, as was often the case in this particular city, were ever welcoming.
On the Friday I spent most of yet another enjoyable day in Philly at the Benjamin Franklin Institute.
A museum not disimilar to our own Science Museum with its interactive displays.
I even boldly took a bicycle ride on a tightrope across the main hall on the Skybike, despite my inability to normally ride one on solid ground!
After another a day spent wandering around the city that evening I briefly visited the Gloria Del Rei Swedish church and then went onto the Italian district for what would be the fourth and final Philly Cheesesteak of my stay.
I really enjoyed my time in Philadelphia, and with the exception of Manhattan, I might even now place it as my favourite US city.
Great praise indeed for a place that I had not given a great deal of consideration towards prior to my arrival.
Wednesday 15 August 2007
The Wonders of Modern Technology
Only in America could it be nigh on impossible to find a payphone that allows you to call the UK, and a PC that doesn't crash on you when you're writing your blog.
On that latter note, after the afforementioned incident when I lost all of about an hour's labour, I have decided instead to write just a brief synopsis of the events of the past week or so.
Apologies for being slightly prosaic about it all, but I'm nearing the end of the trip and I don't know if anyone's reading this anymore anyway.
Mineappolis, Minnesota,
Sunday 5th- Tuesday 7th August
Stayed in our trek leader's brother's back yard.
Had a barbecue, went bowling, walked by the lakes, and went to the number one tourist attraction in the US... (Fanfare) 'The Mall of America'.
Over 500 stores and not one Levis Shop!
Chicago, Illinois,
Tuesday 7th- Thursday 9th August
Ate some of a Chicago Deep Pan Pizza- I must have put on some considerable weight by the end of this trip;
Went up the Sears Tower, didn't go up the John Hancock Centre as instead of resembling The Windy City it's renowned for, Chicago was humid and overcast for most of the time we were there;
Saw the White Sox play baseball; exciting 3-3 affair but had to leave before the end as I didn't want to miss my train.
Although they won 6-4 against the Cleveland Indians in the end.
Sandusky, Ohio,
Thursday 9th- Friday 10th August
It rained which enforced my decision not to go on the World's Tallest rollercoasters. Spent the evening in a Bates' Motel-esque Motel watching the 'Wonder Years'.
I'd forgotten how much I used to like that show as a child.
Niagra Falls, New York State, US, Canada, US...
Friday 10th- Saturday 11th August
Saw the falls; went on the Maid of the Mist boat ride right up to the falls and surprisingly didn't get that wet.
Crossed the bridge over to Canada, and with time ever an issue, pretty much left Canda straight away.
US Customs and Immigrations Conversation:
"So sir when were you last in the US?"
"About 15 minutes ago..."
New Jersey and New York,
Saturday 11th- Monday 14th August
Meant to go on one last excursion with the group before we headed back to our drop off point in New Jersey, the Finger Lakes in New York State.
Our trek leader accidentally passed them en route and so thus ended the Trek America part of my trip.
Made it into Little Italy for something to eat that night, despite feeling physically and mentally exhausted after the previous nine weeks.
On the Sunday I went on a Sopranos Tour of New Jersey, even meeting the actor who played Vito.
Incidentally I still haven't seen the last episode of the Sopranos, nor the Simpsons Movie or Transformers, so no spoilers please!
Stopped by Grand Central Station to take some photographs before heading back to my hostel.
Did one final shopping spree on the Monday.
This one justified by the fact that my jeans had now rather embarrassingly split at the crotch.
Did take in a bit of high culture though, by spending the afternoon at the Guggenheim Museum.
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania,
Tuesday 14th- Wednesday 15th August
Am currently in Philly until Saturday.
The weather is lovely and the city has far exceeded my expectations of it.
Am staying near the quaint Old City, with its reconstructed Georgian architecture.
Have been to Penn's Landing, Constitution Hall, The Liberty Bell, The African American Museum, and Reading Terminal Market, to name but a few places since I arrived yesterday afternoon.
In the public library at the moment en route to the steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
Well I wasn't going to leave here without at least one immitation 'Rocky' photo.
On that latter note, after the afforementioned incident when I lost all of about an hour's labour, I have decided instead to write just a brief synopsis of the events of the past week or so.
Apologies for being slightly prosaic about it all, but I'm nearing the end of the trip and I don't know if anyone's reading this anymore anyway.
Mineappolis, Minnesota,
Sunday 5th- Tuesday 7th August
Stayed in our trek leader's brother's back yard.
Had a barbecue, went bowling, walked by the lakes, and went to the number one tourist attraction in the US... (Fanfare) 'The Mall of America'.
Over 500 stores and not one Levis Shop!
Chicago, Illinois,
Tuesday 7th- Thursday 9th August
Ate some of a Chicago Deep Pan Pizza- I must have put on some considerable weight by the end of this trip;
Went up the Sears Tower, didn't go up the John Hancock Centre as instead of resembling The Windy City it's renowned for, Chicago was humid and overcast for most of the time we were there;
Saw the White Sox play baseball; exciting 3-3 affair but had to leave before the end as I didn't want to miss my train.
Although they won 6-4 against the Cleveland Indians in the end.
Sandusky, Ohio,
Thursday 9th- Friday 10th August
It rained which enforced my decision not to go on the World's Tallest rollercoasters. Spent the evening in a Bates' Motel-esque Motel watching the 'Wonder Years'.
I'd forgotten how much I used to like that show as a child.
Niagra Falls, New York State, US, Canada, US...
Friday 10th- Saturday 11th August
Saw the falls; went on the Maid of the Mist boat ride right up to the falls and surprisingly didn't get that wet.
Crossed the bridge over to Canada, and with time ever an issue, pretty much left Canda straight away.
US Customs and Immigrations Conversation:
"So sir when were you last in the US?"
"About 15 minutes ago..."
New Jersey and New York,
Saturday 11th- Monday 14th August
Meant to go on one last excursion with the group before we headed back to our drop off point in New Jersey, the Finger Lakes in New York State.
Our trek leader accidentally passed them en route and so thus ended the Trek America part of my trip.
Made it into Little Italy for something to eat that night, despite feeling physically and mentally exhausted after the previous nine weeks.
On the Sunday I went on a Sopranos Tour of New Jersey, even meeting the actor who played Vito.
Incidentally I still haven't seen the last episode of the Sopranos, nor the Simpsons Movie or Transformers, so no spoilers please!
Stopped by Grand Central Station to take some photographs before heading back to my hostel.
Did one final shopping spree on the Monday.
This one justified by the fact that my jeans had now rather embarrassingly split at the crotch.
Did take in a bit of high culture though, by spending the afternoon at the Guggenheim Museum.
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania,
Tuesday 14th- Wednesday 15th August
Am currently in Philly until Saturday.
The weather is lovely and the city has far exceeded my expectations of it.
Am staying near the quaint Old City, with its reconstructed Georgian architecture.
Have been to Penn's Landing, Constitution Hall, The Liberty Bell, The African American Museum, and Reading Terminal Market, to name but a few places since I arrived yesterday afternoon.
In the public library at the moment en route to the steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
Well I wasn't going to leave here without at least one immitation 'Rocky' photo.
Sunday 12 August 2007
Stone Me
Black Hills and Badlands, South Dakota,
Saturday 4th August- Sunday 5th August
I have to confess that the Crazy Horse Monument was something that had not truly entered my conciousness prior to our visit there.
Everybody knows about the famous granite monument to commemorate four US presidents, Mount Rushmore, but the native American equivalent to symobolise their societies' ideals does not always draw similar recognition.
Built in response to the completion of the Mount Rushmore in 1941 and begun in 1948, an eternal quest for funding, hindered also by the fact that they have deliberately sought only private finance, has meant that at present only the face of Crazy Horse is clearly distinguishable in the rock.
It is unlikely that the project will be completed in our lifetime, but once finished this three dimensional statue of the Native Indian warrior will dominate a complex consisting of various native cultural and educational institutions.
It was with some sense of bathos that we then headed to the significantky more famous Mount Rushmore, which although still an incredibly remarkable feat, somehow now managed to pale into significance when compared to our previous excursion.
Where incidentally all the four presidents heads of Mount Rushmore could fit into the one single head of the Crazy Horse Monument.
In the afternoon we took a brief excursion to the small town of Wall, home to a unique department store famous across the world, Wall Drug.
With the promise of free ice water, and the novelty manequins and items of Americana that decorate the premises, the reputation of Wall Drug has spread to such an extent that it has become a renowned toursit site in its own right.
Following a couple of hours in Wall we then headed through the Badlands National Park to our accomodation for the evening.
The Badlands are a strange canyon-esque environment where the ancient seabed that was once there has risen through geological activity and has subsequently eroded to form this wonderous landscape of sand mountains, littered by fossils of its former inhabitants.
With such a remarkable setting and after having spent the previous night in a damp tent, I can't say how much of a relief it was to spend that evening in our log cabin located by the park.
Saturday 4th August- Sunday 5th August
I have to confess that the Crazy Horse Monument was something that had not truly entered my conciousness prior to our visit there.
Everybody knows about the famous granite monument to commemorate four US presidents, Mount Rushmore, but the native American equivalent to symobolise their societies' ideals does not always draw similar recognition.
Built in response to the completion of the Mount Rushmore in 1941 and begun in 1948, an eternal quest for funding, hindered also by the fact that they have deliberately sought only private finance, has meant that at present only the face of Crazy Horse is clearly distinguishable in the rock.
It is unlikely that the project will be completed in our lifetime, but once finished this three dimensional statue of the Native Indian warrior will dominate a complex consisting of various native cultural and educational institutions.
It was with some sense of bathos that we then headed to the significantky more famous Mount Rushmore, which although still an incredibly remarkable feat, somehow now managed to pale into significance when compared to our previous excursion.
Where incidentally all the four presidents heads of Mount Rushmore could fit into the one single head of the Crazy Horse Monument.
In the afternoon we took a brief excursion to the small town of Wall, home to a unique department store famous across the world, Wall Drug.
With the promise of free ice water, and the novelty manequins and items of Americana that decorate the premises, the reputation of Wall Drug has spread to such an extent that it has become a renowned toursit site in its own right.
Following a couple of hours in Wall we then headed through the Badlands National Park to our accomodation for the evening.
The Badlands are a strange canyon-esque environment where the ancient seabed that was once there has risen through geological activity and has subsequently eroded to form this wonderous landscape of sand mountains, littered by fossils of its former inhabitants.
With such a remarkable setting and after having spent the previous night in a damp tent, I can't say how much of a relief it was to spend that evening in our log cabin located by the park.
Thursday 9 August 2007
Dodgy Geysers
Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming,
Tuesday 31st July- Thursday 2nd August
After a night spent camping in the old mining town of Butte in Montana, where I witnessed a fantastic sunset that coloured the sky in shades of blood orange, purple and pink, the following day we headed for Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming, the oldest National Park in the US.
That afternoon we bathed in the Gardner River hot springs where the rapid currents and hot water streams provided some relaxation for our aching limbs.
The continual shifts in water temperature in the river was also evidence that even mother nature had long been unable to achieve the feat of hot and cold water being unable to run concurrently alongside one another to produce a consistent warm temperature, long before humankind had invented the electric shower to achieve a similar effect.
We then went to visit probably the most famous feature of the park, Old Faithful. The world renowned geyser and tourist attraction that propels a stream of boiling water into the atmosphere approximately every 90 minutes.
In addition to Old Faithful Yellowstone National Park is home to more geysers than an episode of Eastenders, and the following day we went to visit several of the considerably more pungent sulphuric geysers that are located in the park.
The presence of wildlfe such as bear, elk, and the herds of bison meant that the journey around the park often felt like a safari tour, where visitors would rather foolishly stop and leave their vehicles in the middle of the road whenever they saw such 'attractions'.
No doubt forgetting that they were encountering potentially dangerous and temperemental undomesticated animals and not some man dressed up as Mickey Mouse at Disney Land.
Although we did not undertake any significant trails or hikes in Yellowstone during the days we were there we did see various features that have made the location famous, including the yellow stone canyon from which it obtained its name.
Cody, Wyoming, Thursday 2nd August- Friday 3rd August
On the Thursday we drove to the replica Wild West town of Cody in Wyoming.
Cody is famous for the exploits of soldier, showman and indiscriminate slayer of the idigenous occupiers of the land, be it buffalo or the Native Americans, Buffalo Bill.
Like many of the tourist focused locations we had visited in the US, Cody had the feeling of a town constructed to an artificial ideal of the Western plains.
Whilst I did not get the opportunity to visit the actual replica old town located in Cody, I did visit the Buffalo Bill Museum and the main street consisting of saloon bars and gift shops from where further 'essential' purchases of novelty items were made.
Custer State Park, South Dakota,Friday 3rd August- Saturday 4th August
En route to our campsite in Custer State Park in South Dakota, or SODAK, we made a brief visit to Devil's Tower, a large rock of solidified magma that had once been contained within a now long eroded and disappeared volcano.
The rock itself is perhaps now most associated with Steven Speilberg's film 'Third Encounters of the Close Kind'.
Luckily for us the short trek around the around the rock wasn't as boring as the film.
After our visit to Devil's Tower we then stopped at another replica Wild West town, Deadwood.
Famous for legendary figures such as Calamity Jane, rather than the hard drinking fast living stetson wearing cowboys of a previous era, the town was now temporarily resident to hard drinking fast living leather clad bikers en route to the nearby Sturgis motorcycle convention.
It had now been perhaps a month since we had encountered any significant rainfall, but as the heavens opened as we set up camp in Custer State Park that evening my only thoughts were "only one more week of camping..."
Tuesday 31st July- Thursday 2nd August
After a night spent camping in the old mining town of Butte in Montana, where I witnessed a fantastic sunset that coloured the sky in shades of blood orange, purple and pink, the following day we headed for Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming, the oldest National Park in the US.
That afternoon we bathed in the Gardner River hot springs where the rapid currents and hot water streams provided some relaxation for our aching limbs.
The continual shifts in water temperature in the river was also evidence that even mother nature had long been unable to achieve the feat of hot and cold water being unable to run concurrently alongside one another to produce a consistent warm temperature, long before humankind had invented the electric shower to achieve a similar effect.
We then went to visit probably the most famous feature of the park, Old Faithful. The world renowned geyser and tourist attraction that propels a stream of boiling water into the atmosphere approximately every 90 minutes.
In addition to Old Faithful Yellowstone National Park is home to more geysers than an episode of Eastenders, and the following day we went to visit several of the considerably more pungent sulphuric geysers that are located in the park.
The presence of wildlfe such as bear, elk, and the herds of bison meant that the journey around the park often felt like a safari tour, where visitors would rather foolishly stop and leave their vehicles in the middle of the road whenever they saw such 'attractions'.
No doubt forgetting that they were encountering potentially dangerous and temperemental undomesticated animals and not some man dressed up as Mickey Mouse at Disney Land.
Although we did not undertake any significant trails or hikes in Yellowstone during the days we were there we did see various features that have made the location famous, including the yellow stone canyon from which it obtained its name.
Cody, Wyoming, Thursday 2nd August- Friday 3rd August
On the Thursday we drove to the replica Wild West town of Cody in Wyoming.
Cody is famous for the exploits of soldier, showman and indiscriminate slayer of the idigenous occupiers of the land, be it buffalo or the Native Americans, Buffalo Bill.
Like many of the tourist focused locations we had visited in the US, Cody had the feeling of a town constructed to an artificial ideal of the Western plains.
Whilst I did not get the opportunity to visit the actual replica old town located in Cody, I did visit the Buffalo Bill Museum and the main street consisting of saloon bars and gift shops from where further 'essential' purchases of novelty items were made.
Custer State Park, South Dakota,Friday 3rd August- Saturday 4th August
En route to our campsite in Custer State Park in South Dakota, or SODAK, we made a brief visit to Devil's Tower, a large rock of solidified magma that had once been contained within a now long eroded and disappeared volcano.
The rock itself is perhaps now most associated with Steven Speilberg's film 'Third Encounters of the Close Kind'.
Luckily for us the short trek around the around the rock wasn't as boring as the film.
After our visit to Devil's Tower we then stopped at another replica Wild West town, Deadwood.
Famous for legendary figures such as Calamity Jane, rather than the hard drinking fast living stetson wearing cowboys of a previous era, the town was now temporarily resident to hard drinking fast living leather clad bikers en route to the nearby Sturgis motorcycle convention.
It had now been perhaps a month since we had encountered any significant rainfall, but as the heavens opened as we set up camp in Custer State Park that evening my only thoughts were "only one more week of camping..."
Thursday 2 August 2007
Whither Canada
Those of you who check my blog site fairly regularly may have noticed that when I actually update my site the latest postings do not always correlate with where I actually am in America at that particular moment in time.
The reason for this is simple. Whilst I attempt to keep my blog as up to date as possible, ready to publish at the next location we are at with wi-fi access, inevitably we end up staying at several sites in a row that don't actually have working wi-fi, and so by the time I publish my 'latest' blog it is already several days out of date and we have then moved on.
Don't worry I won't go on a rant about Internet access`again, but just to highlight the pressure of attempting to get everything done in a limited time span; the other week when I was booking accomodation for my stay in Boston once the Trek America`part of my trip is over, I rather hurriedly ended up booking myself into an all female hostel, as I hadn't read the webpage properly.
Luckily they were sympathetic and have made alternative arrangements for me.
I hope.
Well I don't mind sharing.
On that note, just to let you know that I have now arranged to spend a few days on my own in Philadelphia, Boston and Vermont once the 64 day trek is complete, before flying back from New York to the UK on the 27th August.
Anywho, back to the here and now-ish...
Klamath near Redwood National Park, California: Friday 20th July- Sunday 22nd July
Our time near Redwood National Park proved a pleasant respite from the generally hectic nature of the trip.
On the Saturday morning we went for a short walk in the Redwood National Park home to the tallest living organism on the planet, the Giant Redwood tree.
With a potential lifespan of 2000 years, and a height of 350 feet, these trees were in many ways the organic embodiment of the 'everything's bigger and better in America' maxim.
The rest of the day was then spent relaxing back at the campsite, and with plenty of space at our disposal we even managed to have a football match with another trek group who were also staying there.
It would be difficult not to overestimate my pivotal role in the game, as after being 2-0 down, my own solo effort at 2-2 put us in the lead for the first time in a match that we then went on to win.
Unfortunately I don't think any scouts from LA Galaxy were watching that day.
Florence, Oregon: Sunday 22nd July- Monday 23rd July
Most of the Sunday was spent travelling further Northwards.
However once in Oregon we stopped to partake in what would turn out to be one of my favourite activities of the tour so far; a dune buggy ride at The Great Sand Dunes Recreational Area.
Here we were driven around at speeds of up to 70mph and at all angles, over the desert sands.
Inevitably our clothes got a bit sandy in the process and we had to wear protective goggles to shield our eyes.
With sand flying from all directions I was also required to give my mouth a rest for the duration of that particular trip.
Seattle, Washington State (Not DC!): Monday 23rd July- Tuesday 24th July
We set off early to Seattle on the Monday morning, where the grey overcast skies that are apparently characteristic of the North West, were not the most welcoming. Seattle was a strange city.
One of the later cities to be established, it felt like a place that was still seeking to find and assert its true identity. Whilst I spent the afternoon at the famous Pike Street Farmers Market and then at the Experience Music Project based near the 'celebarted' Space Needle, I felt that the city did not offer a great deal in the way of attractions.
Well I am a tourist after all!
The monorail ride to the Space Needle lasted all but two minutes, and the Space Needle was so overpriced for a view of a fairly unspectacular city, that I decided to spend my money at the Experience Music Project.
This was an interesting national music exhibition of popular US music, also focusing in particular on two of the Seattle's areas most famous musical exports; Jimi Hendric and courtesy of the grunge scene of the early 1990s, Nirvana.
Again, whilst I enjoyed the exhibit there was nothing truly unique about it that meant that it could not have been based anywhere else in the US.
I didn't necessarily dislike Seattle, but by now I am sure you have gathered that it was probably my least favour it city I have visited so far.
It was therefore a bit irritating that our departure for Canada on the Tuesday was delayed due to problems with the necessary paperwork, and the fact that we were forced to reconvene every couple of hours or so to check the latest developments, meant that we were somewhat restricted with any further plans for that day.
Oh, Canada,
Vancouver and Banff National Park, Tuesday 24th July- Sunday 29th July
After much waiting we eventually left Seattle in the early evening, later than planned, and after further procrastination at the border we set up camp on the outskirts of Vancouver in British Columbia in the dark.
On the Wednesday morning we made a brief visit to the city itself and stopped in Stanley Park to view the replica native Canadian totum poles mainly constructed in the 1980s by White artists to commemorate their national heritage. Please note a healthy tone of British cynicism in that last remark.
We spent so little time in the city, that to be honest I wasn't really able to form a true opinion of Vancouver. This was in fact sympematic of our first couple of days in Canada, as we made our way towards Banff National Park, Alberta making up the time we had lost on the Tuesday.
Banff National Park was in many ways the highlight of our stay in Canada, and we stayed there for three days from the Thursday until the Sunday.
This was incidentally the longest continual stop on the whole of the trip so far.
The town was quaint and picturesque in a tourist- centric manner, located in a scenic park part of the Canadian Rockies surrounded by huge limestone mountains, pine tree forests and emerald blue ponds and rivers.
On the Friday I went for a short hike in the mountains to see the hoodoo rock formations, and then took a gondola, or cable car as we know them back home, up Sulphur Mountain.
On the Saturday we went to the magnificent Lake Louise nearby and then returned to Banff for an afternoon at the hot springs overlooking the Rockies.
Back in the USSA, Glacier National Park, Montana, Sunday 29th July- Monday 30th July
After a surprisingly easy border crossing back into the US on the Sunday we took a brief trip to Glacier National Park in Montana.
Here this spectacular mountain range is still being shaped and formed by the active, if somewhat decreasing, glaciers. I did not partake in the early morning hikes on the Monday, but even those of my party who did were somewhat restricted by the presence of black bears within the vicinity.
On our short visit the previous day on the shuttle bus I did in fact see my third bear of the trip so far. With Yellowstone only a day away that may increase further if I encounter Yogi and Boo Boo as well.
The reason for this is simple. Whilst I attempt to keep my blog as up to date as possible, ready to publish at the next location we are at with wi-fi access, inevitably we end up staying at several sites in a row that don't actually have working wi-fi, and so by the time I publish my 'latest' blog it is already several days out of date and we have then moved on.
Don't worry I won't go on a rant about Internet access`again, but just to highlight the pressure of attempting to get everything done in a limited time span; the other week when I was booking accomodation for my stay in Boston once the Trek America`part of my trip is over, I rather hurriedly ended up booking myself into an all female hostel, as I hadn't read the webpage properly.
Luckily they were sympathetic and have made alternative arrangements for me.
I hope.
Well I don't mind sharing.
On that note, just to let you know that I have now arranged to spend a few days on my own in Philadelphia, Boston and Vermont once the 64 day trek is complete, before flying back from New York to the UK on the 27th August.
Anywho, back to the here and now-ish...
Klamath near Redwood National Park, California: Friday 20th July- Sunday 22nd July
Our time near Redwood National Park proved a pleasant respite from the generally hectic nature of the trip.
On the Saturday morning we went for a short walk in the Redwood National Park home to the tallest living organism on the planet, the Giant Redwood tree.
With a potential lifespan of 2000 years, and a height of 350 feet, these trees were in many ways the organic embodiment of the 'everything's bigger and better in America' maxim.
The rest of the day was then spent relaxing back at the campsite, and with plenty of space at our disposal we even managed to have a football match with another trek group who were also staying there.
It would be difficult not to overestimate my pivotal role in the game, as after being 2-0 down, my own solo effort at 2-2 put us in the lead for the first time in a match that we then went on to win.
Unfortunately I don't think any scouts from LA Galaxy were watching that day.
Florence, Oregon: Sunday 22nd July- Monday 23rd July
Most of the Sunday was spent travelling further Northwards.
However once in Oregon we stopped to partake in what would turn out to be one of my favourite activities of the tour so far; a dune buggy ride at The Great Sand Dunes Recreational Area.
Here we were driven around at speeds of up to 70mph and at all angles, over the desert sands.
Inevitably our clothes got a bit sandy in the process and we had to wear protective goggles to shield our eyes.
With sand flying from all directions I was also required to give my mouth a rest for the duration of that particular trip.
Seattle, Washington State (Not DC!): Monday 23rd July- Tuesday 24th July
We set off early to Seattle on the Monday morning, where the grey overcast skies that are apparently characteristic of the North West, were not the most welcoming. Seattle was a strange city.
One of the later cities to be established, it felt like a place that was still seeking to find and assert its true identity. Whilst I spent the afternoon at the famous Pike Street Farmers Market and then at the Experience Music Project based near the 'celebarted' Space Needle, I felt that the city did not offer a great deal in the way of attractions.
Well I am a tourist after all!
The monorail ride to the Space Needle lasted all but two minutes, and the Space Needle was so overpriced for a view of a fairly unspectacular city, that I decided to spend my money at the Experience Music Project.
This was an interesting national music exhibition of popular US music, also focusing in particular on two of the Seattle's areas most famous musical exports; Jimi Hendric and courtesy of the grunge scene of the early 1990s, Nirvana.
Again, whilst I enjoyed the exhibit there was nothing truly unique about it that meant that it could not have been based anywhere else in the US.
I didn't necessarily dislike Seattle, but by now I am sure you have gathered that it was probably my least favour it city I have visited so far.
It was therefore a bit irritating that our departure for Canada on the Tuesday was delayed due to problems with the necessary paperwork, and the fact that we were forced to reconvene every couple of hours or so to check the latest developments, meant that we were somewhat restricted with any further plans for that day.
Oh, Canada,
Vancouver and Banff National Park, Tuesday 24th July- Sunday 29th July
After much waiting we eventually left Seattle in the early evening, later than planned, and after further procrastination at the border we set up camp on the outskirts of Vancouver in British Columbia in the dark.
On the Wednesday morning we made a brief visit to the city itself and stopped in Stanley Park to view the replica native Canadian totum poles mainly constructed in the 1980s by White artists to commemorate their national heritage. Please note a healthy tone of British cynicism in that last remark.
We spent so little time in the city, that to be honest I wasn't really able to form a true opinion of Vancouver. This was in fact sympematic of our first couple of days in Canada, as we made our way towards Banff National Park, Alberta making up the time we had lost on the Tuesday.
Banff National Park was in many ways the highlight of our stay in Canada, and we stayed there for three days from the Thursday until the Sunday.
This was incidentally the longest continual stop on the whole of the trip so far.
The town was quaint and picturesque in a tourist- centric manner, located in a scenic park part of the Canadian Rockies surrounded by huge limestone mountains, pine tree forests and emerald blue ponds and rivers.
On the Friday I went for a short hike in the mountains to see the hoodoo rock formations, and then took a gondola, or cable car as we know them back home, up Sulphur Mountain.
On the Saturday we went to the magnificent Lake Louise nearby and then returned to Banff for an afternoon at the hot springs overlooking the Rockies.
Back in the USSA, Glacier National Park, Montana, Sunday 29th July- Monday 30th July
After a surprisingly easy border crossing back into the US on the Sunday we took a brief trip to Glacier National Park in Montana.
Here this spectacular mountain range is still being shaped and formed by the active, if somewhat decreasing, glaciers. I did not partake in the early morning hikes on the Monday, but even those of my party who did were somewhat restricted by the presence of black bears within the vicinity.
On our short visit the previous day on the shuttle bus I did in fact see my third bear of the trip so far. With Yellowstone only a day away that may increase further if I encounter Yogi and Boo Boo as well.
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