Thursday, 9 August 2007

...More Dodgy Geezers



Dodgy Geysers

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming,
Tuesday 31st July- Thursday 2nd August


After a night spent camping in the old mining town of Butte in Montana, where I witnessed a fantastic sunset that coloured the sky in shades of blood orange, purple and pink, the following day we headed for Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming, the oldest National Park in the US.

That afternoon we bathed in the Gardner River hot springs where the rapid currents and hot water streams provided some relaxation for our aching limbs.

The continual shifts in water temperature in the river was also evidence that even mother nature had long been unable to achieve the feat of hot and cold water being unable to run concurrently alongside one another to produce a consistent warm temperature, long before humankind had invented the electric shower to achieve a similar effect.

We then went to visit probably the most famous feature of the park, Old Faithful. The world renowned geyser and tourist attraction that propels a stream of boiling water into the atmosphere approximately every 90 minutes.

In addition to Old Faithful Yellowstone National Park is home to more geysers than an episode of Eastenders, and the following day we went to visit several of the considerably more pungent sulphuric geysers that are located in the park.

The presence of wildlfe such as bear, elk, and the herds of bison meant that the journey around the park often felt like a safari tour, where visitors would rather foolishly stop and leave their vehicles in the middle of the road whenever they saw such 'attractions'.

No doubt forgetting that they were encountering potentially dangerous and temperemental undomesticated animals and not some man dressed up as Mickey Mouse at Disney Land.

Although we did not undertake any significant trails or hikes in Yellowstone during the days we were there we did see various features that have made the location famous, including the yellow stone canyon from which it obtained its name.

Cody, Wyoming, Thursday 2nd August- Friday 3rd August

On the Thursday we drove to the replica Wild West town of Cody in Wyoming.

Cody is famous for the exploits of soldier, showman and indiscriminate slayer of the idigenous occupiers of the land, be it buffalo or the Native Americans, Buffalo Bill.

Like many of the tourist focused locations we had visited in the US, Cody had the feeling of a town constructed to an artificial ideal of the Western plains.

Whilst I did not get the opportunity to visit the actual replica old town located in Cody, I did visit the Buffalo Bill Museum and the main street consisting of saloon bars and gift shops from where further 'essential' purchases of novelty items were made.

Custer State Park, South Dakota,Friday 3rd August- Saturday 4th August

En route to our campsite in Custer State Park in South Dakota, or SODAK, we made a brief visit to Devil's Tower, a large rock of solidified magma that had once been contained within a now long eroded and disappeared volcano.

The rock itself is perhaps now most associated with Steven Speilberg's film 'Third Encounters of the Close Kind'.

Luckily for us the short trek around the around the rock wasn't as boring as the film.

After our visit to Devil's Tower we then stopped at another replica Wild West town, Deadwood.

Famous for legendary figures such as Calamity Jane, rather than the hard drinking fast living stetson wearing cowboys of a previous era, the town was now temporarily resident to hard drinking fast living leather clad bikers en route to the nearby Sturgis motorcycle convention.

It had now been perhaps a month since we had encountered any significant rainfall, but as the heavens opened as we set up camp in Custer State Park that evening my only thoughts were "only one more week of camping..."

Thursday, 2 August 2007

Whither Canada

Those of you who check my blog site fairly regularly may have noticed that when I actually update my site the latest postings do not always correlate with where I actually am in America at that particular moment in time.

The reason for this is simple. Whilst I attempt to keep my blog as up to date as possible, ready to publish at the next location we are at with wi-fi access, inevitably we end up staying at several sites in a row that don't actually have working wi-fi, and so by the time I publish my 'latest' blog it is already several days out of date and we have then moved on.

Don't worry I won't go on a rant about Internet access`again, but just to highlight the pressure of attempting to get everything done in a limited time span; the other week when I was booking accomodation for my stay in Boston once the Trek America`part of my trip is over, I rather hurriedly ended up booking myself into an all female hostel, as I hadn't read the webpage properly.

Luckily they were sympathetic and have made alternative arrangements for me.

I hope.

Well I don't mind sharing.

On that note, just to let you know that I have now arranged to spend a few days on my own in Philadelphia, Boston and Vermont once the 64 day trek is complete, before flying back from New York to the UK on the 27th August.

Anywho, back to the here and now-ish...

Klamath near Redwood National Park, California: Friday 20th July- Sunday 22nd July

Our time near Redwood National Park proved a pleasant respite from the generally hectic nature of the trip.

On the Saturday morning we went for a short walk in the Redwood National Park home to the tallest living organism on the planet, the Giant Redwood tree.

With a potential lifespan of 2000 years, and a height of 350 feet, these trees were in many ways the organic embodiment of the 'everything's bigger and better in America' maxim.

The rest of the day was then spent relaxing back at the campsite, and with plenty of space at our disposal we even managed to have a football match with another trek group who were also staying there.

It would be difficult not to overestimate my pivotal role in the game, as after being 2-0 down, my own solo effort at 2-2 put us in the lead for the first time in a match that we then went on to win.

Unfortunately I don't think any scouts from LA Galaxy were watching that day.

Florence, Oregon: Sunday 22nd July- Monday 23rd July

Most of the Sunday was spent travelling further Northwards.

However once in Oregon we stopped to partake in what would turn out to be one of my favourite activities of the tour so far; a dune buggy ride at The Great Sand Dunes Recreational Area.

Here we were driven around at speeds of up to 70mph and at all angles, over the desert sands.

Inevitably our clothes got a bit sandy in the process and we had to wear protective goggles to shield our eyes.

With sand flying from all directions I was also required to give my mouth a rest for the duration of that particular trip.

Seattle, Washington State (Not DC!): Monday 23rd July- Tuesday 24th July

We set off early to Seattle on the Monday morning, where the grey overcast skies that are apparently characteristic of the North West, were not the most welcoming. Seattle was a strange city.

One of the later cities to be established, it felt like a place that was still seeking to find and assert its true identity. Whilst I spent the afternoon at the famous Pike Street Farmers Market and then at the Experience Music Project based near the 'celebarted' Space Needle, I felt that the city did not offer a great deal in the way of attractions.

Well I am a tourist after all!

The monorail ride to the Space Needle lasted all but two minutes, and the Space Needle was so overpriced for a view of a fairly unspectacular city, that I decided to spend my money at the Experience Music Project.

This was an interesting national music exhibition of popular US music, also focusing in particular on two of the Seattle's areas most famous musical exports; Jimi Hendric and courtesy of the grunge scene of the early 1990s, Nirvana.

Again, whilst I enjoyed the exhibit there was nothing truly unique about it that meant that it could not have been based anywhere else in the US.

I didn't necessarily dislike Seattle, but by now I am sure you have gathered that it was probably my least favour it city I have visited so far.

It was therefore a bit irritating that our departure for Canada on the Tuesday was delayed due to problems with the necessary paperwork, and the fact that we were forced to reconvene every couple of hours or so to check the latest developments, meant that we were somewhat restricted with any further plans for that day.

Oh, Canada,
Vancouver and Banff National Park, Tuesday 24th July- Sunday 29th July


After much waiting we eventually left Seattle in the early evening, later than planned, and after further procrastination at the border we set up camp on the outskirts of Vancouver in British Columbia in the dark.

On the Wednesday morning we made a brief visit to the city itself and stopped in Stanley Park to view the replica native Canadian totum poles mainly constructed in the 1980s by White artists to commemorate their national heritage. Please note a healthy tone of British cynicism in that last remark.

We spent so little time in the city, that to be honest I wasn't really able to form a true opinion of Vancouver. This was in fact sympematic of our first couple of days in Canada, as we made our way towards Banff National Park, Alberta making up the time we had lost on the Tuesday.

Banff National Park was in many ways the highlight of our stay in Canada, and we stayed there for three days from the Thursday until the Sunday.

This was incidentally the longest continual stop on the whole of the trip so far.

The town was quaint and picturesque in a tourist- centric manner, located in a scenic park part of the Canadian Rockies surrounded by huge limestone mountains, pine tree forests and emerald blue ponds and rivers.

On the Friday I went for a short hike in the mountains to see the hoodoo rock formations, and then took a gondola, or cable car as we know them back home, up Sulphur Mountain.

On the Saturday we went to the magnificent Lake Louise nearby and then returned to Banff for an afternoon at the hot springs overlooking the Rockies.

Back in the USSA, Glacier National Park, Montana, Sunday 29th July- Monday 30th July

After a surprisingly easy border crossing back into the US on the Sunday we took a brief trip to Glacier National Park in Montana.

Here this spectacular mountain range is still being shaped and formed by the active, if somewhat decreasing, glaciers. I did not partake in the early morning hikes on the Monday, but even those of my party who did were somewhat restricted by the presence of black bears within the vicinity.

On our short visit the previous day on the shuttle bus I did in fact see my third bear of the trip so far. With Yellowstone only a day away that may increase further if I encounter Yogi and Boo Boo as well.

Wednesday, 25 July 2007

On the road again

Leaving Las Vegas: Tuesday 10th July- Wednesday 11th July

Just to put Las Vegas to bed once and for all. I did resist returning to the casinos that dayuntil later in the evening. The various sites, shopping malls and gift shops proved a sufficient distraction, and a more constructive way of utilising my money that day. On the Tuesday evening we went for a limo ride around the city, before hitting the tables for one last time. After losing around another $90, I decided to call it a day. Basically over two days I'd gambled and lost around 120 pounds sterling in less than a space of two hours, and was never 'up'more than around ten or twenty dollars at any one point. Vegas you may have won this first battlebut the war is not over yet. I will return one day... and lose some more money no doubt.

San Diego, California: Thursday 12th July- Friday 13th July

So after almost five weeks on the road as part of the Trek America part of my trip, and some 7,000miles later, we finally reached the West Coast and the Pacific Ocean. We only spent a day in San Diego, and I'm afraid I to say I didn't go to the world famous zoo, I did however spend a pleasantfew hours in Balboa Park, home of both the zoo and various museums and galaries, then headed offinto the city to spend some more money in the cool clothes shops there. Whilst Balboa Park had a predominantly Spanish feel to its architecture and design, our earlier expedition around the even more salubrious residential area of La Jolla rather bizarrely reminded me of Torquay in Devon. Although there was no Basil Fawlty to be seen. I really liked San Diego, and feel as has often been the case, that there was still alot more of the city to see when we unfortunately had to depart.

Los Angeles, California: Friday 13th July- Sunday 15th July

Even though my Trek America organised part of the trip is due to last 64 days, in LA we began what would be the second part of this journey. Three of our group left our party, with anothertwo joining us on the Sunday when the second part began proper. With a 'free' afternoon in LA separate from our itinerary I decided to go off and explore the areas of Santa Monica and VeniceBeach. I have to confess in general that California as a state, and in particular LA as a city, were places that I didn't think I would be a huge fan of. Images of bronze tanned demi- gods andgoddesses living the Hollywood lifestyle by the beach had filled my mind. However I am pleased to say that LA managed to win me over. The long bus ride through the urban sprawl of the city towards my destinations may have not been the most eye catching, but both Santa Monica and Venice Beach were vibrant and exciting places to visit. The latter even more so than South Beachin Miami in fact. My new found enthusiasm for the city may have in fact derived from another factor as well. Shops. Having not really bought much for myself on the trip apart from the bare essentials, it was nice to splash out and treat myself... again. With a certain former England captainalso newly arrived in LA that very same day, I couldn't but help assisting the LA Galaxy's marketing drive bypurchasing a Number 23 Beckham LA Galaxy football shirt. It was as if it was my patriotic duty.

The following day we checked out Hollywood Boulevard, took the obligatory photos near the hillsidewith the sign in the background, and then set off for a day of fun and frolics at Univeral Studios. Once you go to onetheme park it's hard not to get hooked you know.

Marina, California: Sunday 15th July- Monday 16th July

After we left LA we drove up the rather foggy and surprisingly colder West Coast towards our campsite by the dunes in Marina. The change in climate was quite a surprise, especially as temperatures just a few days before in Vegas had beenwell into the 100s Farenheit during the day, and were in the 40s Celcius even around 2am in the middle of the night!By the time we had arrived at the campsite, set up and had had dinner the thought of sitting on the cold beachin the virtualdark wasn't a huge attraction, and being the ever sociable soul that I am I decided to go to bed early that night.

Yosemite National Park, California: Monday 16th July- Wednesday 18th July

Yosemite (pronounced Yo- sem- mit- tee, as in the grizzled prospector Yosemite Sam) National Park is a huge National Park around the same size as some of the smaller states in the US, and we stayed near thereen route to San Francisco. Full of various wild, although surprisingly in reality tame, animals, it was necessary for us to pack up anything scented when we went to bed at night in order to prevent attracting theattention of bears. On the Tuesday morning we got up at 4am to begin the various day hikes peoplehad opted to take. I was less ambitious than some, but I still managed to cover quite a few milesin the park that day. Forget the managed thrills and spills of Universal Studios, I genuinely had myheart on my mouth a couple of times in the remote woodland between the trails when I heard the occasional rustle inthe trees or the break of twigs in the nearby undergrowth. Every time I passed a cave or turned a corner, I was certainthat I might run into a not so Gentle Ben. In the end I did see a bear, just as one of the park shuttles I had taken was making a stop, and forgetting my previous trepidation, myself and the other passengers enthusiasticallyleft the vehicle to capture some photos. Unfortunatley I was too slow off the mark, as the ratherdocile beast walked briskly past the other unconcerned picners and into the woods.

San Francisco, California: Wednesday 18th July- Friday 20th July

San Francisco is often cited as European visitors' favourite city in the US, and although I did enjoymy time there in some respects it perhaps never fully lived up to my expectations. We did some great activities there crossed the Golden Gate Bridge, did a cruise around the bay, and spent Thursday morning at the world famous former state penetentiary, Alcatraz. Whilst I did manage to see quite a bit of the city by walking around it; some of those steephills were worse than the climbs in Yosemite incidentally; I think my enjoyment of the city was somewhat hampered by the factthat I had my first migraine proper during my time in the States. Well that wasn't bad going, as Ihad managed to stay pretty fit and healthy for over six weeks away. Again I think San Francisco isprobably one of those cities that truly needs several days there to fully appreciate, not ultimately the day and a half we were restricted to. Anyway, refreshed from some evidently needed rest I write this on our bus, as make our way to our final destinationin California, Redwood National Park.

Wednesday, 11 July 2007

The story so far...

After the trials and tribulations regarding Internet access over recent weeks, myself and some of my fellow trekkers decided to group together and buy a laptop.

Is there anything Wallmart doesn’t sell?

So much for getting away from it all, but at least I should be able to update my a blog a bit more frequently.

Hurrah!

So where were we?

Without painstakingly re-living every little incident of the past few weeks here is a low down of what I’ve been up to in those ‘wilderness’ weeks.

Think John Lennon’s ‘Lost Weekend’…

Florida: Friday 15th – Wednesday 19th June

After writing my last proper blog entry during the morning as the rest of my group went snorkeling in Key Largo, that afternoon we drove down to the southern most point in the US, the Florida Keys.

A group of islands trailing off from the mainland into the Gulf of Mexico.

The weather here was typically tropical, unpleasantly humid and successiptble to sudden storms.

On the Saturday we visited the southern most island, Key West.

Key West had a relaxed Caribbean feel to it and I enjoyed wondering round the streets, doing a recording at the point where the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico meet, tasting Key Lime Pie, and rather stupidly forgetting I was in probably the hottest place I’d ever been and getting sun burnt.

In the evening we were meant to go for a ‘booze cruise’ at sea, but unfortunately as the storms picked up once again, we spent the evening in a bar named after the famous mince meat burger and local ‘delicacy’, ‘Sloppy Joes’.

On the Sunday we drove back up through Florida onto Orlando and stopped at the Everglades National Park en route.

Although we didn’t see any alligators on our boat ride apart from those in the enclosed caged areas, how much I would have really have liked to made their acquaintance I’m not too sure.

Then early on Monday morning we set off to ‘The Happiest Place on Earth’ TM, Disney Land.

Despite my initial cynicism, evoked in a place where you are bombarded by smiling faces and replica ‘ye olde worlde shoppes’, I have to admit I had an incredibly enjoyable day going on many of the rides.

Even the big scary ones!

In fact, as someone who had never been to Disney before or to any one of the major theme parks back home, I think I enjoyed myself even more than some of the rest of the group.

The next couple of days were spent relaxing in Panama City.

Essentially a coastal resort, but it served it’s purpose and it was nice to slow the pace down a bit after a hectic first week on the trek.

Louisiana: Thursday 21st June- Friday 22nd June

Our time in New Orleans or ‘Nawleans’ was briefer than intended.

Still visibly affected by Hurricane Katrina , it was certainly the most poverty stricken and deprived place I had seen during my visit to the US.

We only stayed the one evening to sample some of the night life, and then departed the next day staying the following night at a campsite in Lafayette.

Texas: Saturday 23rd June- Tuesday 26th June

I didn’t really give the state of Texas much thought before my trip.

Cattle, cowboys and cacti were the three things that first sprung to mind.

Texas would however become my favourite state of the trip so far even though we saw just a small part of what it has to offer, and is somewhere that I would definitely return to in the future.

On the Sunday we visited the Alamo in San Antonio, renowned for the famous battle between the Anglo- American Texan settlers and the Mexican Army, as the former sought to obtain independence from Mexico.

I really enjoyed visiting the remains of the former mission, and even bought a rather cool T-shirt, even if I do admit it myself, for my collection. That night we arrived in the state capital Austin, and went for a few drinks with another Trek group touring the US.

Our plans to explore the city and the numerous city walks were unfortunately hampered the next day though, when we encountered a heavy rain storm.

My time in Austin was to some extent the biggest disappointment of the tour, because I really wanted to see more of this city that I instinctively felt a connection with, and was primarily due to the weather regrettably unable to do so.

As a result of this I have however already penciled in the notion of going returning there for a holiday in the future.

On the Wednesday we set up camp in Del Rio, and then made the short journey South of the Border, Mexico way.

The border crossing to the town of Acuna was a bit protracted, especially as we all sought to stock up on duty free, and to be honest there was much do or see once we there.

Having visited as many tourist shops as possible selling the same old touristy things, and having passed numerous dentists en route too, we decided to set our stall up in a local bar and have a few tequilas.

Whilst it had been slightly windy that day, nothing prepared us for the horrendous weather accompanied by thunder and lightening that erupted around 5am Wednesday morning in Del Rio.

My tent and my belongings were lucky to escape somewhat unscathed, if a little wet, although some of the fly sheets were torn straight off the other tents.

New Mexico: Wednesday 27th June- Thursday 28th June

That morning, sodden but unbroken we drove onto Carlsbad in New Mexico.

In the afternoon we descended into the famous Carlsbad Caverns and witnessed some spectacular stalagmite and stalactite rock formations, before returning to the caves later that evening to watch the evening bat flight, when some 300, 000 bats leave the cave into the night sky.

Typical, you wait ages for one bat and then 300, 000 come along at once!

Interestingly despite my intentions of recording this event for my audio diary, electrical equipment was not permitted in order to prevent it interfering with the bats’ navigation.

That night fate’s fickle finger was once again to select our group for a disrupted night’s sleep, as we were again awoken by a huge thunderstorm, and which this time our tent’s well being was less fortunate than the night before.

In the end the whole group spent most of the night sleeping in the game’s room complex of the campsite to escape the weather.

On the Thursday we visited the capital of New Mexico, Santa Fe.

One of the oldest existing cities in the Americas and now a rather salubrious location consisting of various up market art galleries, as well as old historical sites.

The Great Outdoors: Friday 29th June- Monday 9th July

In an attempt to get my blog up to date as quickly as possible, I have decided to write about all the National Parks we visited so far, in one section.

On the Friday we arrived in Colorado at Ridgway National Park.

Surrounded by giant red sandstone mountains, and at an altitude of around 7, 000 feet above sea level this was the first time I felt that we had truly made contact with mother nature on the trek due to the remoteness of the campsite and the majestic scenery that encompassed it.

The following day we went to a bathe outdoors at the natural spa at Orvis. Where despite the beautiful scenery, photography was not permitted because of people’s tendency to get truly one with nature more ways than one.

From the Rockies in Colorado, the further westward we went the more the scenery began to resemble the old Road Runner and Wiley Coyote cartoons.

On the Sunday we drove to Moab in Utah, and went for a sunset walk in Arches National Park.

The following morning I went on probably my most ambitious activity of the tour yet, when myself and several other trekkers went for an early morning 7 mile hike around the park.

Arches National Park is essentially a desert comprised of huge red sandstone rock formations and arches that have eroded over time into spectacular shapes, that is possible for the public to ascend and explore.

Although at some points quite high, incredibly hot, and with little shade, we all managed to successfully traverse the route and support each other on the way.

On the Tuesday we then headed to Monument Valley home of the Navajo Indian and the setting for numerous old Hollywood Westerns as well as more contemporary movies.

On the Wednesday morning we went on a guided tour around some of the famous stone buttes, before then stopping off for lunch at a Native American market for lunch.

Although I was able to try some typical Navajo cuisine, the market itself was not particularly exotic and was not dissimilar to your average Sunday car boot fair.

From there we then headed for the Grand Canyon, Arizona. Wednesday was of course the 4th July, American Independence Day.

This was however to turn out as far as we were concerned, rather surprisingly low key.

My own enthusiasm for the event had somewhat waned due to a heightened awareness of the injustices faced by America’s indigenous population, that had troubled my conscience on several occasions the previous couple of days.

In addition to this the incredibly dry weather had meant that all bonfires and fireworks were not permitted at our campsite near the South Ridge of the Grand Canyon.

It is hard to explain the appearance of the Grand Canyon and to truly do it justice simply because of its size.

In many ways it does not look real.

As it is so vast and distant you cannot even measure your own insignificant size in comparison to it.

The best way to describe looking over to the North Ridge would be to say imagine standing on the South Coast of England and instead of being surrounded by sea as you look over to France, imagine a huge crater in the Earth.

Over the couple of days we were there I saw the Canyon on four separate occasions including sunrise and sunset, but it was probably not until my third viewing and on a helicopter tour over the Canyon, that I truly began to appreciate its magnificence.

On the Friday we drove back into the state of Utah, adjusting our clocks once more and stopped off at Lake Powell before setting up camp at a ranch run by a former Trek America Leader.

In the afternoon I went horse riding for the very first time, in true cowboy style, before we held a special party in a barn with three of the other trek groups who were staying at the site.

Our group in particular made a special effort for this event, with all of us dressing up in an outfit costing no more than $10, from items we had managed to buy in a thrift shop earlier that day.

I can’t wait to show you the photos for this one…

On the Saturday afternoon we headed off to Bryce Canyon, a site as distinct to the Grand Canyon as possible.

Despite an initial feeling that we would be going to visit a lesser version of the latter, Bryce Canyon was far from a disappointment, and was bizarrely evocative of a scene from a Christmas card with the pine trees and the wonderful vertical rock formations, or hoodoos, that dominated it.

That evening we even had time to go to a local rodeo.

Yee Haw!

On the Sunday and Monday we visited our final National Park for this part of the trek, Zion National Park.

The Canyon in Zion was again quite distinctive from those we had visited previously, and although I chose not to partake in any of the more adventurous hikes along the steep rock ledges, I was content enough to spend the morning going on some of the more shaded trails at a lower altitude.

Vegas Baby, Vegas: Monday 9th July- Tuesday 10th July

Well so here we are now.

Within less than 24 hours we exchanged the natural beauty of Zion National Park for the flashing lights and artifice of The Strip in Las Vegas, Nevada.

Although I didn’t hit the casinos until around 11.30pm Monday evening, within a period of less than 50 minutes I had managed to lose $150 (approximately 75 pounds Sterling), so much for the ‘party’ shirt- you all know the one.

As I had given myself a rather modest budget of $200 for the two days I decided to call it day on the gambling front for the evening, before I did something I would regret.

Boring I know, but once you start…

The fact I have spent the past hour and half writing this blog this morning has also proved a useful distraction as I have not felt the urge to go forth and win back ‘my’ money first thing this morning, or more likely lose the rest of it, as well as the shirt on my back.

Well at least I had a nice clean bed to sleep in for once.

Monday, 2 July 2007

Internet Hell

Apologies for not being able to update you all with news of my road trip.

Internet access has been sparse to say the least.

I saw aliens when we drove through Roswell, Lord Lucan hiding in the Florida Keys, and I'm sure it will only be a matter of time before we bump into Elvis, but hardly an internet cafe with PCs, as opposed to only wi fi access.

When I get the chance I will fill you all in on the latest.